Burgundy Patina Derby Shoes for Men

This derby gives you a burgundy dress shoe with the depth of a hand painted patina and the easy fit of open lacing, so it works with a navy suit on Monday and dark denim on Saturday. It is Goodyear welted on a leather sole and made to order in US sizes 5 to 16.5, in standard or custom width.

Why burgundy is the smartest second shoe

Most men own black and brown. Burgundy is the color that fills the gap between them. In an office under artificial light it reads as a dark shoe, close to oxblood, so it never looks loud with a suit. In daylight the red comes through and the shoe looks richer than brown. It pairs with navy, charcoal, mid gray and olive, and it is one of the few shoe colors that works with both gray flannel and denim.

• Works with: navy, charcoal, gray, olive, dark denim.
• Avoid with: black suits and brown tweeds in the same red family.
• Belt: a burgundy or dark brown belt, never black.

What a hand painted patina adds

A factory dyed shoe is one flat color. A patina is built by hand in thin layers of dye, each one burnished before the next goes on. The toe, heel and edges are taken darker so the color graduates across the shoe, the way leather naturally darkens with years of wear. The result is a burgundy that looks deep rather than painted, and a pair that is slightly different from every other.

• Layered dye, burnished between coats.
• Darker shading at the toe and heel for depth.
• Sealed with wax so the color holds at the flex points.

Specifications

How this compares

Burgundy patina derbies are sold by a handful of heritage makers and by fashion brands. The differences that matter are how the color is applied and how the sole is attached.

Fit and sizing

A derby is the most forgiving lace up to size because the facings are open at the bottom and spread to fit a higher instep. Order your usual dress shoe length and aim for mild snugness across the instep when laced. If your feet are wide, ask for a wider width rather than a longer size. Measure against the men's shoe size guide and send us your measurements if you are between sizes.

• High instep: a derby laces comfortably where an oxford gaps.
• Custom width available through our made to order service.

Care

• Neutral cream only, so the painted patina layers stay intact.
• Brush after each wear and use cedar shoe trees.
• Keep out of heavy rain, which can mark a patina.
• A patina specialist can touch up a scuffed toe without refinishing the shoe.

Frequently asked questions

Is burgundy or oxblood better for a derby?

They are close, and the names are often used for the same color. Oxblood is darker with more brown in it, while burgundy carries a touch more red and purple. On a hand painted patina the difference narrows further, because the toe and heel are shaded darker and the center of the vamp stays brighter. Indoors this derby reads as a deep oxblood. In daylight the burgundy tone shows. Either way it pairs with the same suits and chinos. Both names describe the same family of deep red leather shoes.

Can you wear a burgundy derby with a suit?

Yes. Burgundy is one of the best colors for a derby worn with a suit, especially navy, charcoal and mid gray. It is slightly less formal than a black oxford, so skip it for black tie or a funeral, but for everyday business wear and weddings it looks polished and a little more personal than black or brown. Keep the belt burgundy or dark brown, and let the shoes be the one warm note in an otherwise cool outfit. It is a color that makes a plain suit look chosen rather than default.

Will the patina color fade over time?

A properly layered and sealed patina holds its color well. Like any finish, it softens slightly at the toe where the shoe scuffs, and it can deepen a little with polish over the years, which many owners enjoy. To keep it true, use a neutral cream rather than a colored polish, store the shoes out of direct sunlight and keep them out of heavy rain. If the toe lightens, a patina specialist can add color back and blend it in.

What colors go with burgundy derby shoes?

Burgundy works with most of the colors men wear. Navy is the classic pairing, followed by charcoal, mid gray, olive and khaki. With casual clothes it looks sharp with dark denim, cream chinos and gray flannel pants. Avoid black suits, where burgundy looks disconnected, and avoid red or rust pants that fight the tone. Match your belt to the shoes in burgundy or a dark brown, and keep your watch strap in a similar family. Burgundy is also forgiving with patterned ties and checked jackets.

How long will these derbies last?

With rotation and care, a Goodyear welted derby can last ten years or more. The outsole is stitched to a leather welt rather than glued to the upper, so when the sole wears thin a cobbler removes it and stitches on a new one while the upper and patina stay untouched. Use cedar shoe trees after each wear, rest the pair a day between wears and condition the leather every few weeks, and the upper will outlast several soles. Resoling costs far less than replacing the pair.

Should I choose a derby or an oxford in burgundy?

Choose the derby if you want the more versatile pair. Open lacing gives more room over the instep, so it fits a wider range of feet, and it dresses down more easily with chinos, flannel and denim. A burgundy oxford is slightly dressier and suits men who mostly wear suits. If you have a high instep or wide feet, the derby will also be more comfortable from the first wear, which is why many men make it their everyday burgundy shoe.

Compare this pair with other open laced styles in our men's derby shoes collection.