Men's Gray Handwoven Suede Boots | Goodyear Welted

These ankle boots set hand woven gray suede panels across the vamp, so you get a soft, textured boot that looks far more considered than a plain suede pair. They are Goodyear welted on a leather sole with a stacked heel and rubber top piece, and made to order in US sizes 5 to 16.5 in standard or custom width.

What hand woven suede adds

Weaving leather, often called intrecciato after the Italian word for braided, means cutting suede into narrow strips and interlacing them by hand into a panel. It takes hours per pair and is the same technique used by luxury Italian houses on bags and loafers. On a boot, the woven panel gives texture and movement that plain suede cannot, and it flexes naturally at the vamp because the strips move against each other rather than creasing as one sheet.

• Strips interlaced by hand, not printed or embossed.
• Flexes well across the vamp.
• Adds texture while keeping the color quiet.

Why gray suede is so versatile

Gray sits between the warmth of brown and the formality of black, which makes it one of the easiest boot colors to wear. It pairs with navy, charcoal, black, white and every shade of denim, and it looks right with both cool and warm tones. A gray suede boot works with chinos and a knit in the fall, with dark jeans in winter and with lighter tailoring in spring.

• Best with: navy, charcoal, black and light gray pants, denim.
• Belt: gray suede, black or dark gray leather.
• Avoid: tan and cognac leather accessories, which fight the cool tone.

Specifications

How this compares

Fit and sizing

Take your usual dress shoe size. A boot fits closer than a shoe around the ankle, so the heel should feel held without pressure. Order suede snug, because the napped surface gives a little over the first two weeks. Check the men's shoe size guide and send us your measurements if you have a high instep or are between sizes. Custom width is available through our made to order service.

What to wear with gray woven suede boots

• Charcoal or navy chinos with a merino knit.
• Dark indigo or black jeans with an overshirt.
• Light gray flannel pants with a navy blazer.
• A gray or black belt to keep the palette cool.

Care

• Spray with a suede protector before the first wear.
• Brush with a soft suede brush after each wear, one direction only.
• No cream and no wax on suede or the woven panels.
• If wet, stuff with paper and dry naturally away from heat.

Frequently asked questions

What is hand woven suede?

Hand woven suede is made by cutting suede into narrow strips and interlacing them by hand into a panel, a technique often called intrecciato. The strips are woven tightly and then set into the upper of the boot. It gives a textured, basket like surface that plain suede cannot match, and because the strips move against each other the panel flexes comfortably as you walk. It is slow work, which is why it is usually found on luxury footwear. The result is a boot that looks crafted rather than mass produced.

Are gray suede boots versatile?

Very. Gray is a neutral that sits comfortably between black and brown, so gray suede boots pair with navy, charcoal, black, white and most denim. They suit casual outfits with chinos and a knit, relaxed tailoring in wool or cotton, and dark jeans at the weekend. Keep your belt gray or black rather than tan, and they will work with most of the clothes you already own through fall, winter and spring. A single pair can carry you through three seasons.

Can you wear suede boots in the rain?

Suede can handle a light shower once it has been treated with a protective spray, but it is not the right choice for heavy rain, slush or standing water. The woven panels in particular should be kept away from prolonged wet so the strips stay tight. If the boots do get wet, stuff them with paper, let them dry naturally away from heat and brush the nap back up once they are completely dry. Treat them before the first wear for the best protection.

How do I clean woven suede boots?

Brush the boots after each wear with a soft suede brush, working gently in one direction and following the direction of the weave so you do not lift the strips. For marks, use a suede eraser lightly on the affected area and brush again. Never use cream, wax or saddle soap on suede or the woven panels. Reapply a suede protector spray every few months, especially before winter. Gentle, regular care keeps the weave tight, even and looking new for years.

Are these boots Goodyear welted or Goodyear welted?

These boots are Goodyear welted. A leather welt is stitched around the upper and insole, and the outsole is stitched to that welt rather than glued to the upper. That means a cobbler can remove a worn sole and stitch on a new one while the suede upper and the hand woven panels stay untouched. It is one of the most durable ways to build a boot and it lets a good pair last for many years. It is the same construction used on the best dress boots.

How should suede ankle boots fit?

Your heel should feel secure with only slight lift when you walk, and your toes should have a little room at the front. Across the widest part of the foot the boot should feel snug but not tight. Suede relaxes a little over the first two weeks of wear, so a firm fit on day one is correct. If the boot pinches at the sides, choose a wider width rather than a longer size. Our made to order service can also adjust the width for you.

Compare Chelsea, chukka and zip styles in our full range of men's leather boots.