Men's Black Double Monk Strap Boots

Men's black double monk strap boots in full grain calf, Goodyear welted on a leather sole and made to order in your size and width. Two buckles instead of laces on a boot, which solves a fit problem that laces cannot and creates one they do not.

Why a buckle beats a lace on a boot, and where it does not

A lace distributes tension across every eyelet, so it pulls the facings together evenly along their whole length. A buckle applies tension at one point, or on a double monk at two.

That difference matters most at the instep. If your instep is high, a lace up boot forces you to choose: loosen the whole lacing and the boot slops everywhere, or tighten it and the facings dig into the top of your foot. A buckle sets tension exactly where you need it and nowhere else, which is why a monk is the most forgiving dress pattern for an awkward instep.

Where it does not help is length. A buckle moves a hole; it does not shorten a boot. If the boot is too long your foot slides forward on a decline whatever you do with the straps, and that is the single most common complaint about well made boots that do not fit.

Single or double, and what the second strap changes

On a boot the second strap earns its place more than it does on a shoe. A boot has a taller upper, so there is more of it to hold down, and the upper strap stops the topline gaping when you sit or bend. On a low shoe the second strap is mostly appearance.

The four things to check on any monk strap

• The strap anchor. It should be stitched through the quarter, not tacked or glued. An anchored strap stays flat for the life of the boot. A tacked one works loose and begins to stand away from the upper, and once it has lifted it does not go back.
• The keeper loop. The loop that holds the strap end down after the buckle is functional, not decorative. Without it the strap tail flaps, curls, and stays curled.
• The buckle bar. A rolling bar is easier on the strap than a fixed one, because the strap slides over it rather than dragging across the same point every time. A fixed bar wears a visible notch into the strap within a few years.
• The punch holes. They should be finished rather than raw punched, for the same reason a belt hole is finished. Raw holes elongate under repeated tension until the strap no longer sits where you set it.

Ask whether the strap can be re-stitched if it ever pulls. On a properly anchored strap a cobbler can redo it. On a glued one there is nothing underneath to stitch to.

Black on a boot, and where it goes

Black is the most formal color in footwear and a double monk is a decorated pattern, so the two pull against each other. The result is a boot that is dressier than any lace up boot in brown and less formal than a black cap toe oxford.

• Works: charcoal and mid gray worsted or flannel, navy, black tailoring, dark denim.
• Avoid: brown and tan tailoring, which fights black at every depth, and a strict formal dress code that expects a plain black oxford.

Black also demands more of the leather than any other color. It absorbs almost all the light that hits it, so a black boot reads as a silhouette rather than a surface, and every ripple in the lasting shows up in that outline. There is no grain or color depth to hide behind.

Full grain, top grain, genuine leather

• Full grain keeps the complete outer surface of the hide with nothing sanded off. The fibers there are the tightest in the hide, which is why it patinas rather than wearing through and why it takes a shine.
• Top grain has been sanded to remove scars then coated or embossed. It looks flawless on a shelf and cracks at the flex line within a couple of years.
• Genuine leather is the lowest grade sold, whatever the name suggests.

On a boot this matters in a second place as well: the straps. A strap flexes under full tension every time you fasten it, far more than the upper does, so corrected grain cracks along the strap first. If you can only see one part of a boot clearly in a photograph, look at the strap.

How these are built

Goodyear welted and hand stitched. A leather welt runs around the upper and insole and the outsole is stitched to that welt rather than glued to the upper, so the boot resoles repeatedly without disturbing the upper. Cork fills the cavity between insole and outsole and compresses to your foot over the first month, so the footbed ends shaped to you.

Full grain calf upper, two stitched straps with keeper loops, leather lining, leather sole, stacked leather heel with a rubber top piece. Width cut to your measurement in D, E, EE or EEE through our made to order service. See the rest of the range in men's monk strap shoes and men's boots.

Fit and sizing

Made to order in US sizes 5 to 16.5 with widths D through EEE.

The straps give you real adjustment at the instep and at the topline, so if oxfords have never worked for you because of a high instep, this is the pattern to try.

What the straps cannot fix is length or ball girth. Order your true length and specify the width separately rather than sizing up to gain room across the ball, because sizing up makes the boot long and a long boot slides forward on any decline no matter how tightly the buckles are set.

Measure against the men's shoe size guide and tell us before you order if you have a high instep, a wide forefoot or are between widths.

Care

Cream first, then wax. Cream feeds the leather and holds the color every four to six wears; wax builds shine on the toe and heel counter, the two areas that do not flex.

Three things specific to this boot:

• Keep wax off the straps entirely. They flex under tension every time you fasten them and wax on a flexing strap cracks and flakes. Light cream only there.
• Clear the channel where each strap crosses the quarter. Cream collects there, dries pale and outlines the strap in a lighter tone, which against black is conspicuous. Brush along that line rather than across it.
• Cream the whole boot, shaft included. The vamp gets polished because it is what you see looking down. The upper part dries out unnoticed.

Use boot trees or stuff the shaft so it does not fold permanently at the ankle. Cedar trees between wearings, a day of rest between wears, dry naturally away from heat.

What to expect when you order

Cut and lasted after you order in your size and width. Production is 10 to 14 days, then shipping.

Questions we get asked

Why choose buckles over laces on a boot?
Because a lace spreads tension evenly along the whole lacing while a buckle applies it exactly where you need it. If your instep is high, a lace up boot makes you choose between a slack boot and facings digging into your foot. A buckle sets tension at one point and nowhere else.

What is the difference between a single and double monk?
One strap versus two, usually set at an angle. The double gives two tension points so instep and topline adjust separately, and it reads as a deliberate design statement rather than an understated one, which puts it a step lower on formality.

Does the second strap actually do anything on a boot?
More than on a shoe. A boot has a taller upper with more to hold down, and the upper strap stops the topline gaping when you sit or bend. On a low shoe the second strap is mostly appearance.

What should I check on a monk strap?
Four things. The strap should be stitched through the quarter rather than tacked or glued. There should be a proper keeper loop, or the tail curls and stays curled. A rolling buckle bar wears the strap less than a fixed one. And the punch holes should be finished, or they elongate under tension.

Can a monk strap be repaired if the strap pulls?
On a properly anchored strap, yes, a cobbler can re-stitch it. On a glued strap there is nothing underneath to stitch to, which is why the anchor is worth checking before you buy.

Is a monk strap good for a high instep?
Yes, it is the most forgiving dress pattern for an awkward instep, because the buckle sets tension where you need it instead of pulling the whole facing together. An oxford fits the instep it was lasted for and cannot open up.

Will the buckles fix a boot that is too long?
No. A buckle moves a hole, it does not shorten a boot. If the boot is too long your foot slides forward on a decline whatever you do with the straps, and that is the most common complaint about well made boots that do not fit.

Why does black demand more of the leather?
Because it absorbs almost all the light that hits it, so a black boot reads as a silhouette rather than a surface and every ripple in the lasting shows in that outline. There is no grain or color depth to hide behind.

Where does poor leather fail first on a monk strap?
The strap. It flexes under full tension every time you fasten it, far more than the upper does, so corrected grain cracks there first. If you can only see one part of a boot clearly in a photograph, look at the strap.

Can I wax the straps?
No. They flex under tension every time you fasten them and wax on a flexing strap cracks and flakes. Light cream only there, and keep wax to the toe and heel counter.

How do I stop polish outlining the straps?
Clear the channel where each strap crosses the quarter before the cream sets, and brush along that line rather than across it. Product left there dries pale and outlines the strap in a lighter tone, which against black is conspicuous.