Nubuck vs Suede: What's the Difference? (Durability, Rain & Care)

Nubuck vs Suede at a Glance

What Is Nubuck Leather?

Nubuck is top grain leather, usually calfskin, whose outer surface has been sanded or buffed so the fibres stand up in a very short, fine nap. Because it keeps the tight, strong grain layer of the hide, nubuck is thicker and more durable than suede and holds the shape of a shoe well. The name is often traced to "new buck", since it was first made to imitate buckskin. The trade-off is that the fine surface scratches easily and can mark when wet, although light marks usually brush out.

What Is Suede?

Suede is made from the inner split of the hide, the side that faces the animal's flesh, which is brushed or sanded to raise a longer, softer nap. It can come from calf, cow, goat, sheep or deer. Suede is lighter, more supple and needs almost no break-in, which is why it is popular for loafers, chukka boots and summer shoes. Because the split layer is looser than the grain, suede is less strong than nubuck and soaks up water and oil more easily.

Which Is More Durable: Nubuck or Suede?

Nubuck is more durable, because it comes from the outer grain layer, the strongest part of the hide. In everyday wear that means:

• Shape: nubuck shoes keep their structure longer, especially across the vamp.
• Wear points: suede thins faster where it flexes or rubs.
• Scuffs: suede hides small scuffs in its nap; nubuck shows scratches but they often brush out.
• Lifespan: both last for years on a stitched, resoleable shoe if they are brushed and protected.

A Goodyear welted shoe can be resoled many times, so a well cared for nubuck or suede upper outlives several soles.

Can You Wear Nubuck or Suede in the Rain?

This is the most common worry buyers raise about both leathers. Neither is a rain shoe, but they react differently:

• Nubuck: copes with light drizzle better than suede, but darkens and can water-mark if soaked.
• Suede: absorbs water quickly and can stiffen or stain if it dries badly.
• Protect first: spray both with a nubuck and suede protector before the first wear.
• If they get wet: blot, stuff with paper or cedar shoe trees, dry away from heat, then brush.

How to Clean and Care for Nubuck and Suede

Both leathers are cared for in a similar way, and the same small kit works for both. Follow these steps:

1. Brush after every wear with a soft brush, moving in one direction to lift dust from the nap.
2. Rub light marks and shiny patches gently with a suede and nubuck eraser.
3. For water marks, dampen the whole panel evenly with a barely wet cloth, let it dry naturally, then brush.
4. Re-apply a protector spray every few weeks in a well-ventilated space.
5. Never use wax, polish or regular leather cream, which flatten and darken the nap.

Nubuck Crocodile: When Nubuck Meets Exotic Leather

Nubuck is not only a calf finish. Nubuck crocodile is crocodile leather whose surface is buffed instead of glazed, so the scales look matte and velvety rather than glossy. It keeps the unmistakable scale pattern but feels quieter and more relaxed, which is why it works so well on loafers and mules. Care is the same as any nubuck: brush, protect and avoid wax. For glossy crocodile styles, see our exotic shoes collection.

Our navy, black and purple nubuck crocodile mules show the finish at its best: soft scale texture on a backless shape made for warm days. For a softer, plainer napped leather, compare the beige suede mule.

Nubuck or Suede: Which Should You Buy?

Choose by how and where you will wear the shoes:

Browse our men's leather mules, including nubuck crocodile and suede pairs, or explore suede styles in our men's loafers and boots collections.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is nubuck better than suede?

Neither is better in every way. Nubuck is cut from the outer grain side of the hide, so it is usually tougher, holds its shape better and copes with light moisture slightly better. Suede is cut from the inner split side, so it is softer, more flexible and has a fuller, fuzzier nap. Choose nubuck when you want a structured shoe that lasts and looks smart, and suede when you want a relaxed, soft shoe for dry weather.

Is nubuck waterproof?

No. Nubuck is more water resistant than suede because it comes from the tighter outer layer of the hide, but untreated nubuck still absorbs water and can darken or mark. Spray new nubuck shoes with a protector made for nubuck and suede before the first wear, repeat every few weeks, and let wet shoes dry naturally away from heat. Brush the nap once they are dry to lift it back up.

Can you use the same cleaner on nubuck and suede?

Mostly, yes. Both are napped leathers, so both are cleaned dry first with a soft brush and a suede and nubuck eraser, then treated with a protector spray. Neither should get wax, polish or regular leather cream, which flatten and stain the nap. Suede usually needs a slightly stiffer brush because its nap is longer, while nubuck needs a gentler touch so the fine surface is not scratched.

What is nubuck crocodile?

Nubuck crocodile is crocodile leather whose surface has been lightly buffed instead of glazed, so the scales look matte and velvety rather than shiny. It keeps the scale pattern of crocodile but with a softer, more relaxed finish, which suits loafers and mules worn in summer. It is cared for like nubuck: brushed, protected with a spray and kept away from wax and heavy creams.

Are nubuck mules good for summer?

Yes. Nubuck and suede mules are among the best summer shoes, because the backless shape keeps the foot cool and the napped leather breathes and looks relaxed with linen, shorts and chinos. Nubuck holds its shape a little better than suede, so it suits a structured mule with a deep vamp. Protect it with a spray before the first wear and avoid wearing it in heavy rain.